The state of food criticism in this country has long since been a point of discussion amongst restaurateurs, journalists, chefs and restaurant goers alike. It is generally accepted the world over that in any centre where the restaurant scene flourishes whether it be London, Sydney, San Francisco, Johannesburg or Cape Town the level of journalism that supports it is a vital part of that industry. Chefs and critics have always had a precarious relationship, but the same can be said for movie directors and theatre producers and their respective critics; they are a necessary evil that keeps the public informed and keeps the operators on the toes. This criticism is an important part in helping to separate the good from the bad, the mediocre from the exceptional.
Newspapers and magazines would be doing their readers and the restaurant community a great service by providing more regular and critical restaurant reviews. Visitors to our cities whether local or from abroad are at times perplexed as to what restaurants are out there and whether they are any good or not. Very few of the daily broadsheets or monthly publications carry enough if any critical commentary on a regular basis.
With the notable exception of Roussows Restaurantswhen was the last time that anyone printed a restaurant review that was actually critical, the reviewers will happily slate wine, movies, plays and exhibitions or any other form of the arts should they feel that such criticism is warranted. Yet the same standards are not held when reviewing restaurants, why is that? The main function of these reviews is to inform the public; I know I always have a look at the reviews when all the new movies come to town, I have neither the time nor the inclination to go to all of them and so I look to my local paper to help with my selection; the same should be for the restaurant scene, the sheer number of new restaurants opening all the time means that some kind of informed review would help when looking for some where new to eat. Newspapers claim they do not have the budgets for these reviews, as by their nature they can be expensive but if one looks at the sort of profile that chefs and the restaurant industry gets in other forms of media these day; you can’t go to a festival without a demonstration kitchen nor can you turn on the television without seeing the latest cooking guru. The point of all this is that food and dining out have become entertainment and it is still beyond me why the newspapers etc haven’t allocated the budgets to do justice to the popularity of this movement. In the Cape Town broadsheets there are listing for every DJ and his mate who have ever pulled an album from its sleeve, but the restaurant scene is relatively ignored.
In London on a Tuesday the restaurant world holds its breath waiting for the Evening Standard newspaper to come out; their food editor, Fay Mashler, is notoriously demanding and a star rating from her is a thing to be proud of, but in the same breath she will unleash a tirade should she be less than satisfied. Terry Durzack used to do the same in The Times in Sydney. AA Giles and Giles Coren both writers for the Times in the UK are a pleasure to read, their knowledge of their subject gives their reviews substance and credibility. Their criticism sells papers, their reviews are well written and for the most part constructive, they will always be subjective but at least that are coming from a professional point of view, from people who are properly paid and expect to pay their way.
Great blog Pete, and important points to make if we are to look past our immediate self-focus to the bigger picture of the health of the restaurant culture.
A comment from the “sponsors” side though: it’s difficult, when (as is often the case) there is only space for one review at a time: I have often wrestled with how helpful it is to the public to focus that single review on a poor restaurant, and erred on the side of deciding against it.
There are ways around it, of course. A running “best of” and “oops” list would be one way of placing a review in context.
Good commentary, Pete. The fact is that the food writers you mention attract readers. There seems to be a general belief among publishers and editors that their “consumers” (who used to be referred to as “readers”) don’t like reading. There was a point back a while when the rage for cover lines (barkers) on the front covers of magazines always started with a numeral.
“10 Ways to better abs!”
“69 Ways to pull-off office sex”
“13 best breakfast places”
etcetera.
It got to the point when I thought just how high will it go, when the question was answered for me by a magazine that had the improbable:
“634 Ways to Stay in Style”.
I wept.
The printed word is there to be read and will be if it’s written well. All we ask from our chefs is that their food be “good, clean and fair” — that’s about the same as what they should ask for from the critics.
It will then be read and provide as much joy as in the eating.
Food for thought…
Hi Peter and Ian,
I am sooo jealous! Been looking at doing a Deli idea ever since I left Blues all those years ago… instead I fell into the claws of fashion. Peter, I last saw you as the Fashion Director of Glamour at the Ackermans launch in Observatory. I still vote it the best launch ever… thanks to you! Loved watching you create. My passion for food,decor and music lives on and I so look forward to venturing into The Wild Woods…..Congratulations to you both!
Cathy Steed