
Bruce Jack & I
Recently three quite emotional events transpired; firstly the sad passing of Ross Gower – a man whose passion for life & chest crushing bear hugs will always remind me how lucky I have been to have known such an indomitable spirit. Secondly the 10th anniversary of the death of a great friend – Spike Russell; a winemaker of estimable talent and a lust for life not unlike Ross’s. And thirdly I made wine for the first time, under the keen eye of Adam Mason at Klein Constantia. (more about the wine making in future blogs – we are pressing this week so we will still have to wait and see whether it is any good)
I have been very fortunate in the relationships I have forged, through cooking and excessive drinking, in the wine fraternity. There are a number of wine personalities who I am honoured to say are also Kitchen Cowboys – Bruce Jack, Wilhelm Coetzee, David Trafford, Guy Weber, Coenie Snyman, Etienne Le Riche, Bevan Newton Johnson, Andrew Gunn, Paul Cluwer & James Farqueson.
Eating, drinking and cooking with these guys has been an unbelievable learning experience as I have always believed that food & wine live side by side, but the creative process has more common elements than you would imagine.
Through out my career as a chef I’ve always be involved with pairing wine and food but have not given at lot of thought to the actual process of creating the wine and by this I mean the creative process of blending and tasting. Any fool can cook as any idiot can make wine, but to make memorable food and exceptional wine, therein lies the talent.
It wasn’t until I started working in Franschhoek on the La Couronne a wine estate that this became clear to me.
Spike, a much missed friend, winemaker and cook of note, put me in the embarrassing position of making me realize that he knew far more about my profession than I of his.
Through our brief but educationally hedonistic friendship I learned what more chefs should know and he what more wine makers should know.
The process of finishing dishes, being able to put your finger (or tongue) on what fine element may raise a dish from mundane to mercurial, be it a pinch of salt or sugar or a hint of acid or a touch of something softer, is a gift that separates the exceptional from the excepted.
The same is true of wine and the ability to juggle barrels and taste and feel what is right and when a taste has been achieved on which there can be no further improvement save the work of Mother Nature.
I also accept that a good wine begins in the vineyards, the same can be said of food, you will only make mediocre food with mediocre ingredients. Spike and I had many a heated debate as I always held that he had the easier of the two jobs as he only had one ingredient to look after while mine where numerous.
This for me is the true magic of our professions and I am disappointed that there is not more of a platform on which to explore this magic.
For a country that has such a wealth of talent both in the vineyards and the kitchen it is indeed a shame that more is not being done to challenge our burgeoning creativity. Having said this food and wine evenings are becoming the norm in the restaurants, but often some of these pairings are often misguided or badly researched.
For me it makes more sense for the chef to taste the wine and create food around what has been tasted as you can’t change what’s in the bottle. There are still too many menus done in isolation – the chef writes the menu and sends it to the wine maker who comes up with some approximate pairings.
We need to see our wine and food as inseparable and the more we talk and write on the subject, the more we will all become more educated diners and drinkers.
May the sauce be with you.